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When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. However, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.